05 February, 2012

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Our E30 318is project will be carried out on the first car we ever prepared, the customer at the time simpley wanted a stripped out track car with uprated suspension and brakes; a year or so later it was up for sale and it seemed very fitting to buy the car and use it for this project. We're going to super charge the standard M42 1.8 DOHC engine (specific to the 318iS) with a Rotrex C30-84 super charger. We were going to use an Eaton M45 but we have now opted to use the Rotrex. The M42 came with forged crank and conrods as standard so can easily take the 200BHP we're aiming for from this project.

The plan is to fit the super charger to the N/S of the engine, utilising the strong mounting points of the alternator (which subsequently is being relocated). Charge cooling will be achieved with the use of an FMIC (or Front Mounted Inter-cooler); With this, we have had to re-design the head light setup and convert the existing dual unit into a single light unit in housing anH4 bulb for dip and main beam.

To run the engine with the super charger we're installing up rated injectors with a higher flow rate to prevent fuel starvation and an after market FPR to adjust the pressure of the fuel going into the engine. As for management we're going to be using a some form of aftermarket ECU system.

Report by Richard:

The first thing I actually did was go on the hunt for a new radiator. I found a perfect condition one on ebay for a good price so snapped it up. While on the subject of the radiator, I wanted to do an electric fan conversion; a lucky find at a scrap yard provided an 11 inch push fan which I made some simple metal brackets for and bolted it to the radiator. I later realised the radiator had a tapped boss in the side to take a temp switch to switch an electric fan. Using an OE BMW switch and a relay, I wired the switch to the fan but also ran a manual switch into the cabin so the fan could be run even if the engine wasn't on; this will prove helpful if the car has been out on track but is then parked up in a paddock or pit lane.

Next came the FMIC. I opted to go for a smaller cooler than I originally planned, reason being the Mini Charger isn't the biggest and I didn't want precious PSI being lost through an over sized cooler; the smaller one was also easier to fit and sits perfectly behind the front grilles. To allow for the pipe work to clear the front valance with out rubbing, a new valance was purchased and sections cut away leaving plenty of room.

Next on the list was to sort out the head lights. To be able to route the FMIC pipe work where I wanted to, one of the head lights had to be removed and the light mounts cut in half. This posed a problem when it came to getting an MOT on the car as it would only have had a dip beam lamp. The solution came in the form of a simple 5 3/4" head light unit which houses a H4 bulb (which contains both high and low beam in one bulb). I removed the dip beam bulb holder and lens and used silicone sealer to glue the new light unit in place. This meant I could use the OE adjusters to adjust the light angles. I then simply cut the light holder in half so the pipe work for the FMIC could get past.

I then had to come up with a way of switching between the two filaments as lighting both would cause the bulb to over heat and blow. I came up with a system using a 5 pin relay which had dip beam running through pins 30 and 87a being switched by the main beam circuit (running through 85 and 86). Idea being dip beam would run through the relay and light dip beam, when the full beam was switched at the stalk, it pulls the relay across to pin 87 isolating dip beam and lighting full beam. The video below shows the system in action.

I had a remote head made with a special tapping for the OE pressure switch, to get the oil to the remote head, I bought a take off plate which replaces the OE oil filter housing (Big thanks to Think Automotive). I have designed and made a bracket out of aluminium for the remote head which will be located where the battery used to live. I have also removed the filter housing from the engine to allow fitment of the take off plate to the block. For this I had to get a new oil pressure valve (princely sum of £4.88) to go between the plate and the inlet side of the engine. Once the new engine is in place and I have an idea as to where the charger will sit, I will then route the pipe work. Adding a remote head also allows for easy conversion to an oil cooler should I notice any extreme rises in temperature under heavy usage. *This has now been removed*

The engine that is in the car, was producing exhaust fumes that where blue in colour, indicating oil is finding its way into the cylinders, there was also an oily look to the coolant suggesting head gasket problems. I've also got problems with the gearbox not selecting certain gears. I decided to go all out and buy a complete new engine and gearbox to drop into the car. Once this project is complete, I plan to rebuild the engine and make another project from that.

As a nice and interesting modification, I decided to do a COP (Coil On Plug) conversion. The advantage to this is it eliminates the need for HT leads meaning no power can be lost through the HT leads therefore a better spark. I used a special water cut plate and coil packs from the M52 engine from an E36. There is little modification that needs to be made to fit them; minor stripping back of the cable insulation and re-wrapping the wires to suit the coil positions is all that's needed along with slight modification to coil pack 1 to allow it to fit in-between the rocker cover. The plate used for this will soon be available in our shop.

To help get some real acceleration and more power to the wheels, I purchased a 30% uprated clutch kit and had the M42 fly wheel lightened. I had 20mm removed from the out side diameter of the wheel and the sections in between the mounting points removed; this will also aid cooling of the clutch. The flywheel as standard weighs in the region of 12kg give or take. After lightening it weighed 6.872kg by its self and with the clutch bolted to it, a combined weight of 11.478kg.

The super charger pulley is a 6-tooth pulley; the standard M42 crank pulley wheel only has 2 large 'V's. To allow for the correct width pulley belt to be used, I had to change the crank pulley wheel. The BMW M43 engine came with the 6-tooth pulley needed. The trigger teeth for the CPS had to be machine off and I needed a spacer so the new wheel would sit against the alternator pulley. I then had to find another M43 pulley wheel (which sits inside the main one for the PAS) and an M52 PAS pump wheel to match.

To help the car stop with the extra power, I bought a Wilwood big brake kit. The discs are 280mm (20mm larger than standard) and the Wilwood calipers are 4 pots. I have also upgraded the lines to braided lines to hold the pressure better and give better feel. There is a 2mm spacer required as the caliper sits extremely close to the back of the wheel. Really looking forward to seeing how they stop.

To allow the alternator mounting points to be used for the charger, I had to move the alternator to the other side of the engine. I had a 5mm aluminium plate machined up along with some 35mm spacers to mount the alternator using the air con pump mounting points. The plate and spacers for this will soon be available for order in our shop.

With the help of some local BMW enthusiasts, I got the engines swapped. We managed to do the swap in just a few hours which we were pretty chuffed with. The new engine was fitted with out a gearbox as the gearbox to prop coupling was, for use of a better word, trashed. The gearbox will be one ASAP. The new engine was no bother at all to fit, just slotted in perfectly and the alternator proved not to be an issue.

I've been having a look at the space down the back of the engine and felt comfortable enough to route my oil hosing given that there is loads of space behind there even without the gearbox fitted. So I got both lengths worked out using 20mm conduit. Being the same outside diameter as the actual hose, it allowed me to accurately gauge the length and space required. I got the hose lengths cut and took them to my local Pirtek as getting the unions on was a total mission. I also wrapped the pipes in spiral wrap to protect them from chaffing etc.

The hoses come out of the take off plate, on top of the engine loom case, behind the bracket which holds the case in place, then around the back of the engine where engine out let hose goes around and under the wiring, P-clips to the filter bracket then up into the housing, the return comes out and follows the same route. It's very secure and I've tied the hoses together to keep them from moving about.

I ordered some superflex hose from SFS Performance, to make my breather and idle hoses. The fact it flexes so well allowed me to easily bend and route the hoses. I hopefully won't be running the engine as standard for too long, so I don't have an ICV (Idle Control Valve), this does mean that when the engine is cold, it won't idle correctly but once up to temperature it will be fine.

I managed to get the gearbox fitted with the help of a friend of mine who also happens to have a 318iS. We managed to fit it in a couple of hours. I changed the fluid for some brand new stuff and that was complete. Getting the starter bolted on after was a total mission and I had to take apart most of the hosing and wiring on the O/S of the engine, just to reach the nut to fix it to the gearbox! Once that nightmare was out the way it was time to start!

The first few attempt at turning the key didn't fire her up as all the pressures etc had to build up and everything had to settle in. After a while of turning it over with a little open throttle, she made her first roar of life then stopped. A few more goes and she fired up, I had to adjust the throttle slightly as it was revving a bit high but after that she ran beautifully. Even though I don't have an idle control valve fitted, it actually runs as clean as a whistle.

To hide the head light wiring I decided to re-instate the plastic BMW head light covers which hide the back of the lights. The N/S one had a hole in it for the OE BMW CAF (Cold Air Feed) and it is exactly where the FMIC pipe work comes through which was handy. I had to make slight modification to the O/S one to allow the electric fan plugs to fit into the radiator and for the FMIC pipe work to come through like the other side.

As doing this has now removed my CAF, I had to some how get one into the engine bay. I fitted an aluminium trumpet to the fog light blacking panel and then one to the flat area just in front of the wheel arch where the air filter will be. I then simply linked them together with some flexible hosing.

To protect the alternator from any water that might stray up into the engine bay I got a splash guard for the engine bay. Along with the splash guard I also got a set of brake cooling ducts. These parts were standard fit on the old E30's but the car had had them removed when I got my hands on it. Although they're a bit muddy and boring, they'll do an invaluable job.

With a good going over the car was ready for its first outing! I chose a fairly low key but still very well run airfield track day organised by Motorsport-Events. Keevil airfield was the venue and Ian Crisp came and picked the car up with his van and trailer. This was just a shake down test, on standard road tyres and with the suspension on it's lowest setting. The car handled very well indeed, the only issue's that arose on the day were a slight drip of engine oil and a leaky seal on the steering rack.

So since the track day the car has been in the garage receiving some attention. During the post shake down check over a few issues came to light that needed changing. Firstly one of the dampers wasn't adjusting properly so that had to be replaced and the ball joints were shot. So a full front suspension strip down was in order! New high quality wishbones were purchased along with the new damper, eccentric wishbone poly bushes, a power steering rack, -60mm lowering springs and powder coated struts.

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After a successful track day, I wanted to clean the inside of the car up a little so I took everything out and re-sprayed the floor. I also moved the battery cable again so it ran down the transmission tunnel so it looked much neater.

To lay the power down more efficiently and to give better traction, I bought and fitted a 4.1 LSD. LSD's in this ratio are very hard to find in this country so I was very glad when this one came up for sale. It also had some work done on it in the shape of a multi- plate clutch upgrade with 40% ramp angle change.

The Rotrex requires its own lubrication system and cooler. It's pretty tight for space when you need to fill the engine bay with large pipe work; finding space for the reservoir, filter and pipes was interesting but I'm happy with where everything sits. The oil cooler is mounted on simple aluminium brackets and rubber mountings to protect the cooler from vibrations. To protect the pipes from being damaged I covered them in black plastic spiral wrap.

The super charger bracket is made from 10mm steel for strenght but this inherintly makes it rather heavy! To combat this I drilled two 57mm holes through it and shaved off around 450grammes, every little helps.

The hosing on the 'high pressure' side is made up of SFS Performance silicone bends and straight aluminium sections which are cut to length. The exit of the charger is 51mm but I raised it to 63mm to suit the intercooler in and outlets as well as the throttle body joiner on the engine.

All that was left to do was to fit up the air filter pipe work and plumb in the recirc valve. I kept the bends between the airfilter and the inlet of the super charger to a minimum so to allow the charger to breath better and be more efficient. The recirc valve is attached to the inlet and outlet pipes via two 38mm aluminium spouts and SFS silicone joiners.

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